My last 18 months flew past in setting up Meru Vann a sustainable, experiential and a boutique lodge in Kanha. This resulted in me missing my customary half yearly visit to one of my favorite Jim Corbett National Park. When it comes to Jim Corbett it is tough for me to say what is better, the National Park, our team in the park or doing the tigers safaris in Corbett.
This park is beautiful year-round, and over the years I have been in this park every month and every week. Interestingly, every week and month have their own charm in Jim Corbett.
The night before, the customary charging of batteries of my Canon R3 and R5 Mark 2 took place, keeping sufficient memory cards and my clothing which must have one full jacket even for mid-April. Surprised? Don’t be, but be prepared, for I have repeatedly mentioned that tiger safaris in India in different National Parks can catch you off guard when it comes to weather. In North India it is normal to expect temperatures of 35-38 degree Celsius in mid-April, and Jim Corbett is in North India, but it is located on the foothills of the Shivalik range of the mighty Himalayas.
I left home at 5am from home on this 275kms drive with estimated time to be 6 hours to get to the park. Stopped after about 125kms for a pit stop and used that time to have a lovely tandoori Aloo-Pyaz Parantha with curd and Kulhad Chai at Tadka Dhaba in Gajraula which is about 15 kms ahead after crossing the Holy Ganges in Garh Mukteshwar. There are enough outlets in the area which span on both sides of the highway for about one km, for coffee lovers there is Cost Coffee, Star Bucks, for fast food there are some delicious Indian outlets like Haldiram and Bikanervala. For the gen-z there is Mcdonalds, Pizza Huts, Dominos, etc. I stop at Tadka as I have been stopping here since 1992, every year and twice. I not only had a hearty breakfast but also kept some light snacks and cookies for my stay in Dhikala Forest Rest House as you stay here away from any shop, market etc.
The drive resumed and before I forget I must mention that the first 200kms drive towards Corbett is a smooth 6 lane highway. I reached Ramnagar where our local team was ready with a linen bag, some essentials for stay, like fruits, tea/coffee maker, etc. The Forest Rest Houses in Corbett are basic, so we send in a bag for all our guests which have all these items including enough bottled water, and toiletries etc.
We reached the Dhangarhi gate around 11am. My Naturalist Vijay alongwith Driver Nanhe were waiting in the safari vehicle. We did all check-in formalities, which includes showing your photo id which was used for booking your stay permit, declaring that you are not carrying any liquor smokes etc. At times they do check the bags of the guests for the same. The litter bag is given here for you to carry back all your food waste or packing material that you might be carrying. Your mobile phone alongwith phones of the Naturalist and the driver is kept in a small wooden box, the box is locked, one key remains with the guard at Dhangarhi gate, this box is kept in the safari vehicle, and you are asked to proceed to Dhikala Forest Rest House. It is here that you set up your camera equipment as what beholds you in this journey is beyond anyone’s expectations. You may see everything on the tracks ahead that is possible to see in this park, it could be an elephant, a tiger, a leopard, a Himalayan Black bear, some species of dear, and some beautiful owls and birds.
The drive of next 32kms goes past a pristine sal forest, crossing bridges built over small rivulets. My detoxifying journey to a true wild haven has begun. Every bend of this meandering track evokes suspense. While Vijay was telling me about the sightings in the park, Nanhe was quietly on the lookout for the signs of the predator in the vicinity. The obvious lines that cross my mind here are; “the woods are lovely dark and deep, but I have promises to keep, miles to go before I sleep, miles to go before I sleep”.
In the very first mile my nostrils start to inhale deep, and with every exhale I felt lighter and more energetic. The smell of the new leaves on the Sal was intoxicating to say the least. Here you do not need to do Pranayama (the yogic breathing). The flow of the wind goes unobstructed to the lungs. The rhythm of the light jerks of the Gypsy on the muddy tracks got a bollywood song on my lips, and I begin to hum “Musafir Hoon Yaron, Na Ghar hai na Thikana, bus chalte jaana”. Nanhe looked at me, and smiled, he gesticulated me to continue, and I did.
Along this journey we crossed the four Forest Rest Houses, namely, Sultan, Gairal, Sarpdulli, and Khinanauli. A few kms short of Dhikala you start to look left and right more frequently, as this is the time of the day when the tigers are either just relaxing under the shadows of the sal, or going for their onward patrolling or towards a water hole.
Only those who have been to Dhikala know what goes through the mind when you have the first vision of the Dhikala Rest House about a km away under the dome of Sal canopy. This is realization of a beautiful dream. I got up to see the grassland on both sides. You don’t only enter the Rest House gate, you enter the realm of joy.
Part 2 to continue
